Hernekeitto is a traditional Finnish split pea soup made with dried peas, smoked pork, and a pinch of marjoram. It simmers low and slow until the peas melt into a thick, creamy bowl of comfort. Finns eat it every Thursday, and once you taste it, you will understand why.
If you have never tried a real Finnish pea soup recipe, you are in for something special. Hernekeitto is one of those dishes that sounds almost too simple to be worth your time. Dried peas. Smoked pork. A few hours on the stove. That is the whole story. But the result? A thick, golden, soul-warming bowl that has kept Finns fed and happy through dark winters for centuries.
This is not the watery, bland pea soup you might have grown up with. Finnish split pea soup has body. It has smokiness from the ham, a gentle earthy sweetness from the peas, and just enough marjoram to make it feel like home. In Finland, hernekeitto is served every Thursday. Schoolchildren eat it. Soldiers eat it. Office workers eat it. It is as Finnish as the sauna itself.
I fell in love with this recipe during my time living abroad, when a bowl of something warm and familiar became the most important thing in the world. This hernekeitto recipe is the real deal, and I am going to walk you through exactly how to make it at home.
Love cooking from scratch but hate going over budget on groceries?
Grab The Ultimate Budget Planner to keep your meal planning and spending on track without the stress. Get it here →
Recommended Kitchen Tools for Finnish Cooking
Why Hernekeitto Is Finland’s Most Beloved Comfort Food
Every culture has that one dish that just means “home.” In Italy, it is a slow-simmered ragu. In Japan, a steaming bowl of ramen. In Finland, it is hernekeitto. This traditional Finnish pea soup has been part of the weekly routine for generations, and the Thursday tradition goes back to the Middle Ages when Catholic Finns needed a filling, meat-free meal before Friday fasting.
The tradition stuck even after Finland became predominantly Lutheran. Walk into any Finnish school cafeteria, military mess hall, or workplace canteen on a Thursday, and you will find hernekeitto on the menu. It is always followed by Finnish pulla bread or pannukakku (oven pancake) with jam for dessert. That is just how it is done.
What makes hernekeitto different from other pea soups around the world is the simplicity. There is no mirepoix, no complicated spice blends, no cream. The flavor comes almost entirely from quality dried peas and good smoked pork. The peas cook down so completely that the soup becomes almost pudding-thick, which is exactly the point. If you love hearty, no-fuss fall soups and stews, this one belongs at the top of your list.
Tips and Variations for Making the Perfect Hernekeitto
The beauty of this Finnish split pea soup is that it is hard to mess up. But a few small choices can take it from good to absolutely incredible.
Use whole dried peas if you can find them. Split peas work perfectly fine, but whole dried green peas give the soup a slightly more rustic texture that Finns prefer. Either way, soak them overnight. I know it is tempting to skip this step, but trust me on this one. Soaked peas cook more evenly and break down into that thick, creamy consistency you want.
Pick the right pork. A smoked ham hock is the classic choice. You want something with a bone, because the bone adds a depth of flavor that boneless cuts just cannot match. Smoked pork shoulder or a meaty ham bone will also work beautifully. If you want a lighter version, smoked turkey leg is a solid alternative.
Go vegetarian if you like. Skip the meat entirely and use a good vegetable broth with a tablespoon of smoked paprika and a splash of soy sauce for umami. It will not taste the same as the traditional version, but it is still a deeply satisfying bowl of soup. Finns would probably raise an eyebrow, but your taste buds will not complain.
Do not rush the simmer. Hernekeitto needs time. Low heat, a gentle bubble, and patience. Stirring every 15 to 20 minutes keeps the peas from sticking to the bottom. You will know it is done when the peas have completely dissolved and the soup coats the back of a spoon. If you have a slow cooker, this is a perfect candidate. Set it on low for 6 to 8 hours and walk away.
Leftovers are even better. Like most stews and soups, hernekeitto tastes better the next day. The flavors continue to develop as it sits. It also freezes well for up to three months, so you can make a big batch and portion it out for easy weeknight dinners. If you enjoy Finnish comfort soups like lohikeitto, you already know this is the kind of food that rewards patience.
Recipe: Hernekeitto (Traditional Finnish Pea Soup)
Prep Time: 10 minutes (plus overnight soaking)
Cook Time: 2 hours
Total Time: 2 hours 10 minutes (plus soaking)
Servings: 6 to 8
Ingredients
- 500g (about 2 cups) dried whole green peas or yellow split peas
- 1 large smoked ham hock (about 500g to 700g), bone-in
- 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and left whole or roughly halved
- 2 liters (about 8 cups) fresh cold water
- 1 teaspoon dried marjoram
- 1 teaspoon salt (adjust to taste after cooking)
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- Strong Finnish or Dijon mustard, for serving
- Dark rye bread and butter, for serving
Instructions
- Place the dried peas in a large bowl and cover with plenty of cold water. Let them soak overnight, or for at least 8 hours. The peas will swell to nearly double their size, so use a generous amount of water.
- Drain and rinse the soaked peas thoroughly. Discard the soaking water.
- Place the peas in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the smoked ham hock and the whole onion. Pour in 2 liters of fresh cold water.
- Bring the pot to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface during the first 10 minutes. This keeps the soup clear and clean-tasting.
- Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot with a lid slightly ajar, and let the soup simmer gently for about 1.5 to 2 hours. Stir every 15 to 20 minutes to prevent the peas from sticking to the bottom.
- After about an hour of simmering, add the dried marjoram, salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. The smoked ham hock will release salt as it cooks, so start conservatively.
- The soup is ready when the peas have completely broken down into a thick, creamy consistency and the meat falls easily off the bone. Remove the ham hock from the pot.
- Pull the meat off the bone, shred or chop it into bite-sized pieces, and return the meat to the soup. Discard the bone and any tough cartilage. Remove the onion as well.
- Give the soup a final stir, taste once more for salt and pepper, and serve in deep bowls with a generous spoonful of strong mustard on the side and thick slices of buttered dark rye bread.
Notes
- Storage: Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 4 days. The soup will thicken considerably as it cools, so add a splash of water when reheating.
- Freezing: Hernekeitto freezes beautifully. Portion into freezer-safe containers and store for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the fridge before reheating on the stove.
- Slow cooker method: After soaking and draining the peas, add everything to your slow cooker. Cook on low for 6 to 8 hours or on high for 4 to 5 hours.
- Pea troubleshooting: If your peas are not softening, add a teaspoon of baking soda to the soaking water. Rinse thoroughly before cooking to remove any soapy taste.
Frequently Asked Questions About Hernekeitto
Why do Finns eat pea soup on Thursdays?
The tradition dates back to the Middle Ages when Finland was Catholic. Fridays were fasting days, so people needed a filling, hearty meal on Thursday to carry them through. Even though Finland has been Lutheran for centuries, the Thursday pea soup tradition never went away. It is baked into the culture at this point.
Can I use split peas instead of whole dried peas?
Absolutely. Split peas cook faster and break down more easily, which means your soup will come together in about 1 to 1.5 hours instead of 2. The texture will be slightly smoother, but the flavor is the same. Whole dried peas give a more traditional, slightly chunkier result.
What should I serve with hernekeitto?
The classic Finnish way is with strong mustard (sinappi) on the side and slices of dark rye bread with butter. For dessert, Finns traditionally follow hernekeitto with pannukakku (a large oven-baked pancake) topped with jam and whipped cream. A glass of cold milk or a Finnish beer rounds out the meal perfectly.
Is hernekeitto the same as regular split pea soup?
Not quite. Most American or British split pea soup recipes include carrots, celery, onions, and sometimes potatoes. Finnish hernekeitto is deliberately simpler. It relies on just peas, pork, onion, and marjoram. The lack of extra vegetables means the pea flavor really shines through, and the soup ends up much thicker than other versions.
Can I make hernekeitto vegetarian?
Yes. Replace the ham hock with vegetable broth and add a tablespoon of smoked paprika plus a splash of soy sauce for depth. You will not get that smoky pork flavor, but the soup is still rich and filling on its own. Some Finnish vegetarians also add liquid smoke for a closer approximation. If you are looking for other Finnish comfort food recipes, there are plenty that adapt well to plant-based diets.
Key Takeaways
- Hernekeitto is a traditional Finnish pea soup eaten every Thursday across Finland, a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages.
- Soak your dried peas overnight for the best texture and most even cooking.
- A bone-in smoked ham hock is the key to authentic flavor. The bone adds richness you cannot replicate with boneless cuts.
- Low and slow is the only way. Simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until the peas completely dissolve into a thick, creamy soup.
- Serve with strong mustard and dark rye bread for the full Finnish experience. Follow it with pannukakku and jam if you want to do it right.
Final Thoughts
Hernekeitto is proof that the best food does not need to be complicated. A handful of ingredients, a few hours of patience, and you end up with one of the most comforting bowls of soup you will ever eat. Whether you make it on a Thursday to honor the Finnish tradition or on any cold evening when you need something warm and filling, this recipe will not let you down. Make a big pot, freeze the leftovers, and you will thank yourself later. If you are building a collection of Finnish recipes, this one is a must-have.
Hernekeitto (Traditional Finnish Pea Soup)
Hernekeitto is a traditional Finnish split pea soup made with dried peas, smoked pork, and a pinch of marjoram. It simmers low and slow until the peas melt into a thick, creamy bowl of comfort.
Ingredients
- 500g (about 2 cups) dried whole green peas or yellow split peas
- 1 large smoked ham hock (about 500g to 700g), bone-in
- 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and left whole or roughly halved
- 2 liters (about 8 cups) fresh cold water
- 1 teaspoon dried marjoram
- 1 teaspoon salt (adjust to taste after cooking)
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- Strong Finnish or Dijon mustard, for serving
- Dark rye bread and butter, for serving
Instructions
- Place the dried peas in a large bowl and cover with plenty of cold water. Let them soak overnight, or for at least 8 hours. The peas will swell to nearly double their size, so use a generous amount of water.
- Drain and rinse the soaked peas thoroughly. Discard the soaking water.
- Place the peas in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the smoked ham hock and the whole onion. Pour in 2 liters of fresh cold water.
- Bring the pot to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface during the first 10 minutes. This keeps the soup clear and clean-tasting.
- Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot with a lid slightly ajar, and let the soup simmer gently for about 1.5 to 2 hours. Stir every 15 to 20 minutes to prevent the peas from sticking to the bottom.
- After about an hour of simmering, add the dried marjoram, salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. The smoked ham hock will release salt as it cooks, so start conservatively.
- The soup is ready when the peas have completely broken down into a thick, creamy consistency and the meat falls easily off the bone. Remove the ham hock from the pot.
- Pull the meat off the bone, shred or chop it into bite-sized pieces, and return the meat to the soup. Discard the bone and any tough cartilage. Remove the onion as well.
- Give the soup a final stir, taste once more for salt and pepper, and serve in deep bowls with a generous spoonful of strong mustard on the side and thick slices of buttered dark rye bread.
Notes
Storage: Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 4 days. The soup will thicken considerably as it cools, so add a splash of water when reheating.
Freezing: Hernekeitto freezes beautifully. Portion into freezer-safe containers and store for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the fridge before reheating on the stove.
Last update on 2026-08-08 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API